Good morning guys,

I consider myself as getting pretty proficient with the 1941 9N with all the work I had to put into mine since getting it 11 years ago and learning as I go, however, I have now encountered something I haven't experienced yet and not sure how how to go about testing properly.
My 9N will now not crank at all, it's as if I hit the button without the battery hooked up, I think its got to be either the starter button or starter motor that went bad. I've been researching it, and you tube videos but none show how to test to narrow down.
I checked what I knew to look at so far, The last few times using it, (I mow with it) it was starting to act up when starting where it would not crank then it would, now it just will not at all.
The generator does well charging back the battery, when putting on the charger, it showed as already full charge.

I need some pointers on how to test and what to look for when testing, I don't consider myself very good with electrical so not sure how to test with a meter to narrow it down to what I will need to replace.

Thanks in advance !!!

You can also try tapping on the starter with a hammer and see of that changes its behavior. Soemetimes there could be a "dead" spot in the starter. Having an electronics background, I prefer to use a DVM to see if energy is reaching the starter and track down the problem if there's nothing reaching the starter.

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'm going to troubleshoot it this coming weekend.
I will try the hammer idea Farmer Brown before trying to use the jumper cable.

I've been very curious, how does the neutral lockout work, I haven't been able to find anything that gives me a clear understanding of it, how does it prevent the starter operation when in gear?

Thanks again guys for your assistance !!

Here's a view of the underside of the transmission cover. If the shifter is not in neutral, the lockout prevents the starter button from making electrical contact, allowing the voltage to get to your starter:

Use a Jumper cable from battery Neg. post then to lug on top of starter

Make 100% sure the tractor is in neutral. Use jumper wire and jump between a good ground and the starter lug on top of the starter motor. If the starter motor spins, the the problem is in the starter switch. If the starter does not spin, the problem is the starter motor.

Basically you are saying to completely bypass the starter and go direct negative side of battery direct to starter motor?
Sorry to sound ignorant, my confusion on electrical systems, 'jump between a good ground' I am going to use a wire, one end on starter motor lug and where would I put the other end?
Also should I use a certain gauge wire for this test, or a normal jumper lead with alligator clips would suffice?

Here's a wiring pictogram to help you see what they are talking about. They are suggesting using a jumper wire (make one with alligator clips or use half of a set of battery jumper cables) to bypass the starter switch to isolate your problem:

As mentioned, be sure that your transmission is in neutral so you don't end up with rear tire tracks on your body.

Thank you guys, I did have the thought that was what you were telling me, a direct battery to starter jump, I will give that a try and see what I get

Hey Guys,

I did the direct battery to starter and nothing, not even a grunt from the starter at all, I also tried light tapping of the starter with a hammer.
so I got it figured out.

Thank you Ed for the picture of the neutral lockout, seems to be simple but very clever idea.

Another question, I was watching a you tube video on testing the starter, the guy doing the video had a meter hooked to the starter lug and I could not see where he had the negative lead attached to, I am thinking, clipped to the tractor body ???
When he pushed the starter button, it produced the voltage necessary to the starter motor to further verify a bad starter, my question is, am I right on the meter negative lead going to the body for proper grounding?

Yes, ground the other lead. With DC (direct current) electricity, power flows from the source (the battery in this case), through the object being powered, and then to ground. The ground is an important component and must be a good, clean connection.

Sounds like you will be replacing your starter based on your last test. Some things to be aware of:

1- The two long screws that attach the starter to the chassis also hold the starter together. If you remove the screws when removing the starter, it might fall apart in your hands. You need to have a nut in reach (5/16" if memory serves, but I'm not 100% sure of this) and screw it on one of the long screws to hold the starter together before you do step-2.
2- You will have to wiggle and finagle the starter to get the Bendix past the flywheel. If a previous owner has been through this, you may note that the starter hole is no longer round and will have a slightly elongated opening around 2 o'clock. This made it easier to reinstall the starter and will make it easier for you to remove it. I have a photo of one that has been ground out some, and I can post it if it will be of help to you.
3- The starter grounds itself to the chassis, so the flange around the starter hole should be free of rust and paint to get a good ground. Clean it up if it is not before reinstalling the starter.

Holler back if you have other questions.

Best of luck with it............Ed

Thank you so very much Ed !!

I did the meter test correctly then, I am slowly learning how the DC electrical system work so when hooked up the meter and I pushed the starter button, I got no voltage increase at all on the meter, stayed at zero, so that peaked my curiosity and so I took the battery to get it load tested, even though my test of the battery putting on the charger showed it being fully charged, the load test on it failed showing battery was going bad,so I bought a new one, replaced it and wallah, the tractor started right up.
So looking forward to mowing with it again.

I'm so happy that I don't have to take the starter off, however for the future I may possibly need to at some point.

These are great instructions Ed for removing the starter, I had no idea the bolts also hold it together in addition to keeping it fastened to the body so I am going to be holding onto these along with my maintenance notes I keep.

Thanks for letting us all know what the solution was, Don. It may help a future visitor here.

You're welcome Ed,

You guys are all so very helpful and knowledgeable & I would like to return the favor in anyway for anyone that either hasn't came across an issue to learn from or someone getting their first N series tractor and looking to learn the basics as I used to be when I first got my tractor. I have learned quite alot all these years working on my 9N.
it's a pain when something fails but fun and it presents another learning opportunity and the self satisfaction of being successful with fixing it.

Glad you got it running and thanks for the followup.

You're welcome HCooke!!!

Me too and Thank you all for all being there and being so helpful, I have learned quite alot over the years having that tractor.
I got the tractor back in 2015 and had to push it in my garage I had at the time, fluids dripping and leaking from neglect and sitting in a field to rot and all the work I have put into it, I got it tuned and running better then I ever have experienced riding it.