My little tractor recently started running rough and would barely pull itself. It was converted to 12v many years ago. I decided to put on pertronics electronic ignition and update all the wiring. I wired it according to the schematic supplied by K. LaRue 2006 from this site. The only additional wire was the igniter wire from the distributor to the ignition side of the ballast resistor…according to the instructions.
Ignition switch is a toggle switch and it will start with the switch on but once running the switch won’t shut it off. It is a 3 wire alternator with B and 2 connected and going to the junction bolt on the resistor and 1 going to ignition side of resistor. If I pull #1 wire from the alternator the switch will work. I don’t think the original amp meter is working…I have another ordered. Probably not a good description but any thoughts would be appreciated. Electrical is my nemesis is seems. Thanks Jack

#1 terminal on alternator needs to have a diode, 194 bulb, or 22-27 Ohm resistor in series to prevent the alternator from backfeeding the ignition.
diode needs to be at least 3 Amp 50 Volt rating
striped end to alternator
or
194 bulb needs to be in a socket with two wires
or
resistor needs to be at least 1 Watt rating

The diode blocks reverse current
or
the bulb or resistor will limit current to a level too low for the coil to make a spark.

Thanks so much! I found the diode in the original wiring and will use it. It was buried under lots of electrical tape. The tractor does start better now and has more power.