In Reply to: Re: 8N ignition problem posted by Fordummy on July 14, 2013 at 21:16:45:
Larry,
Please extend my sympathies to your wife. That Alzheimer’s is a terrible disease!
I could not retrieve your pictures but those that JMOR posted are great and his instructions with the test light will work fine also. I never use a test light but that's simply because I have meters available but no test light! Could make one but I'd misplace it!
As to the chit-chat, I've only been on this site a little over a year I believe. It would take some work to prove/disprove that time! There have been times when I thought we were getting too off course and have taken the conversation off-line. Both of our email addresses are open so we could easily do that. No one has ever raised an objection to what I've posted.
As you said - to work.
I also happen to have a Craftsman digital multimeter which my eldest daughter gave me. It probably is not the same model as yours but gives me some insite on what you are looking at. It also has only two settings for ohms. One for checking diodes as outlined below, the other for measuring resistance and it autoranges throughout the full range. The tiny M with the omega symbol indicates Megohms. In other words a million ohms. That would be the condition when the leads are not touching.
The OL, which you mentioned previously is OverLoad, indicating the voltage exceeds that particular range on your meter.
The symbol which looks like an arrowhead is actually the setting used when you are checking diodes. With a diode inserted between the probes, in the forward direction it should read about .3 or .4 up to .8 depending on the type of material in the diode. In the backwards direction it should read infinity. It sounds as if infinity is represented by the megohms symbol on your meter.
The model number of mine is 82139
Looking on-line I came up with a model 82141 for $18.91 and a model 82140 for $24.29
Both have the diode setting and then in a clockwise position, 200; 2000; 20K; 200K and 2000K. A K represents 1000, so the ranges are 200 ohms full range, 2000 ohms, 20,000 ohms, 200,000 ohms and 2,000,000 ohms which is 2 Megohms. If I’m cutting into knowledge which you already had, please forgive me.
Interesting enough, when I touch the leads together on mine in the ohms position, it also goes to 0 and then climbs to .4 Actually shifts around that point by one digit. I’ve used it quite a lot and wonder if my battery is needing changed as it should not do that!
In the diode position mine also has a tiny v in the lower right hand corner. I have no idea what it means or why it is there. If I were to look my manual up, it possibly would tell me.
The 12 volts did not cause the short. I really suspect the stud and feed-though bushing. Thinking you moved them when you changed the wire. If so, be thankful as it prevented you from breaking down when you were furthest from the shop.
Posting pictures is simple ----- once you really learn how! I still have to read the instructions each time I want to do it!
It looks pretty positive your trouble is in the distributor. Between JMOR's instructions and mine, you should be well on the way of finding it.
I'll be gone from about 10 AM Central time to about 2 PM tomorrow. Have to ride with my oldest granddaughter to her ice skating practice. Going 30 miles out of town and Mom won't let her go alone! She is only 16.
Jack
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